Как работать перфоратором по бетону: Как правильно работать с перфоратором

Как правильно пользоваться перфоратором – статья от пользователя ОБИ Клуба

Перфоратор – незаменимый электрический инструмент при проведении ремонтных и строительных работ в квартире или доме. Ориентирован перфоратор на работу с бетоном и кирпичом, однако, при отсутствии другого инструмента справится с деревом и металлом, важно правильно подобрать буры. Соблюдение правил пользования перфоратором нацелено не только на сохранение работоспособности инструмента продолжительное время, но и на профилактику травм, поскольку перфоратор в неопытных руках может привести к беде.

Функционал перфоратора хоть и определен созданием отверстий и штроб, тем не менее каждая модель имеет несколько основных режимов работы. В зависимости от режима, различается и технология работы с перфоратором.

• Режим сверления. Перфоратор выполняет задачу шуруповерта, использование специальных бит позволит сделать отверстия в дереве и металле. Для достижения результата не следует применять силу, кроме того, использование сверлильных патронов запрещает включение режима удара, это приведет к поломке инструмента. Перед началом работы включите перфоратор без нагрузки, проверьте отсутствие лишних звуков и запахов.

Перфоратор – инструмент, обладающий потенциальной опасностью для человека, безответственно относящегося к технике безопасности. Для продуктивной и безопасной работы необходимо соблюдать правила пользования перфоратором.

• Позаботьтесь о личной защите. На глазах должны быть очки, при работе в режиме удара дополните амуницию берушами и респиратором. На одежде запрещены завязки и другие предметы, которые могут намотаться на бур.
• Мягкий, пористый или рыхлый материал сверлите без функции удара, чтобы материал не рассыпался от воздействия.
• Для комфортного сверления твердых материалом используйте смазку. Подойдет машинное масло, имеющееся в каждом гараже.
• Не забудьте и об охлаждающей смазке, особенно это касается работ по металлу. При отсутствии специальной эмульсии, воспользуйтесь все тем же машинным маслом.

На продолжительность службы влияет не только правильная эксплуатация перфоратора, но и качественный уход за инструментом. Чтобы защитить функционально важные части от попадания пыли и мелких щепок, надевайте на патрон специальный щит. Во время работы пользуйтесь пылесосом для сбора пыли. По окончании сверления протирайте инструмент сухой тканью, при сильных загрязнениях воспользуйтесь слегка влажной материей. Уход за перфоратором заключается и в своевременной смазке рабочих элементов.

Забота об инструменте и соблюдение правил использования ведет к увеличению срока службы и получению качественного результата работы за быстрое время.

Как работать и пользоваться перфоратором по бетону, кирпичу и другим материалам

Как работать перфоратором? — глупый вопрос, казалось бы. Бери да работай. Однако кое-какие правила эксплуатации перфоратора, о которых не все знают, все же есть. Рассмотрим их в этой даже не статье,  а заметке.

1)Многие, когда работают перфоратором, при сверлении бетона, кирпича и других каменных материалов стараются сильно давить на инструмент, думая, что этим ускоряется процесс. Я очень не рекомендую так делать, так как скорость сверления на самом деле от этого не увеличивается или, если и становится больше, то не намного. А вот нагрузка на ударный механизм перфоратора от этого становится чрезмерно высокой. Результат — преждевременный выход из строя данного механизма. Стоит ли оно того ради экономии нескольких секунд?

Очень много качественных перфораторов по низким ценам в одном месте. Нажмите, чтобы посмотреть

2)Трехрежимный перфоратор имеет отдельный режим долбления, когда происходит удар, но нет вращения. Тут есть один нюанс, из-за которого стоит отдельно написать, как долбить перфоратором в режиме отбойника, чтобы не сломать инструмент раньше времени. А нюанс такой — функция долбления является вспомогательной, поэтому я советую вам не работать постоянно перфоратором как отбойником. Для этого есть отбойные молотки. На перфораторе же функцию долбления используйте изредка.

3)На перфораторах указывают такой параметр, как максимально возможный диаметр бура. При постоянной работе бурами с максимально допустимым диаметром или приближенным к этому значению перфоратор выйдет из строя раньше, чем если бы он работал с бурами меньшего диаметра. Поэтому, если ваши работы предполагают частое использование бура определенного диаметра, то рекомендую вам иметь перфоратор, у которого максимально допустимый диаметр бура процентов на 30 больше, чем вам необходимо.

4)Купив новый перфоратор, многие граждане сразу вставляют в него бур и начинают работать. А смазку для буров в патрон кто добавлять должен? Если не использовать смазку для буров, то патрон быстро выйдет из строя, а бывает даже так, что хвостовик бура просто плющится и потом его невозможно вынуть из патрона. Поэтому не забывайте положить немного смазки в патрон и затем следить за ее наличием в нем.

5)Вам нужно перемешать специальной насадкой бетон? Или просверлить в дереве отверстие большого диаметра? Для этих работ есть специальные тихоходные дрели с понижающим редуктором, которые могут выдавать большой крутящий момент. Не надо использовать для этого перфоратор только из-за того, что он большой. У него нет такого понижающего редуктора, как у указанных выше дрелей, поэтому двигатель может запросто сгореть. Тем более что и мощность двигателя у обычного SDS+-перфоратора примерно равна мощности двигателя обычной дрели, которую вы не захотели использовать для указанных выше целей.

Вот такой список получился. Советую вооружиться указанными выше советами, а также обязательно читайте инструкцию перед использованием перфоратора. Тогда работать им станет проще и приятнее, и прослужит он вам достаточно долго.

Читайте также:

90000 How to Fight a Counter-Puncher 90001 90002 90003 90004 90002 90006 Counter-punchers can be the hardest AND MOST ANNOYING type of fighters to beat! 90007 90004 90009 90010 They’re so much faster. Sometimes even taller and longer. 90011 90010 They move a lot. 90011 90010 And they hit you every time you try to come in on them. 90011 90016 90002 Like I said, counter-punchers are ANNOYING! But do not worry … there are many tactics you can use to put pressure on them, make them uncomfortable, and eventually break them down.90004 90002 Here’s how you counter the counter-puncher! 90004 90002 90004 90023 What is a Counter Puncher? 90024 90002 A counter-puncher is the fighter that waits for you to move first. The counter puncher attacks only after you attack. He does not want to do anything until he sees your first move. Fighting a beginner boxer that likes to wait is easy; all you have to do is throw punches and never give him a chance to return fire. Beating a skilled counter-puncher is a totally different story.90004 90002 90006 Counter-punchers can make you feel 90029 like everything you do is a mistake. 90007 90004 90002 He is the patient boxer that simply stands there waiting for you to make the first move. For every punch that you throw, he has the perfect answer. For every move that you make, he seemingly knows the perfect counter-move. To beat any type of opponent, you must first understand him. 90004 90002 90004 90036 Understanding the Counter Puncher 90037 90002 Before you can beat the counter puncher, or any fighter, you must first learn why he uses his style.So why is your opponent waiting for your first move? Is it because he’s faster than you or more skilled than you? Being a counter-puncher myself, I like to wait because it feels safe. I like waiting for my opponent to open himself up first before I open myself up. And if I’m opening myself only to attack his openings, then it becomes a fool-proof strategy! 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 This is how I like to think as a counter-puncher …. 90007 90004 90046 90002 Why should I attack or use energy first when he’s not yet open? 90004 90002 Why should I open myself up when I can just wait to use my perfected combos? 90004 90002 Why should I punch first when I’m fast enough to catch him on the recovery? 90004 90002 Why should I throw a jab and risk getting countered by bigger shots? 90004 90002 Why should I go first if waiting is absolutely safer and effective? 90004 90002 Why should I go first if I’m trying to save energy? 90004 90059 90002 Whether or not the counter puncher is truly more skilled than you is not the point … it’s that he is PREPARED for you.He’s prepared to defend, and prepared to counter-attack. And he does not want to give up his advantage of preparation by throwing the feeler punches. The trickiest fighters are often counter-punchers because they know how to set dangerous traps for you. He’s not only waiting for you but also urging you (baiting you) to make the first move. I like to call this guy the “AGGRESSIVE COUNTER-PUNCHER”. 90004 90002 The other kind of counter puncher is just a guy in a defensive situation. For whatever reason, he does not want to trade punches.He does not want to fight, he does not even want to be in the ring! He might be hurt, or he’s tired, or he’s weaker than you. Whether or not you see it, he’s carrying a physical or psychological disadvantage … and he’s probably SCARED OF YOU! 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Just because he’s waiting on you does not mean he’s a counter puncher. 90007 90004 90002 He’s only counter-punching because he’s forced into the situation. I call this guy the “PASSIVE COUNTER-PUNCHER”. (Note: passive counter punchers are not always less-skilled.Sometimes they have good boxing skills but just lack confidence in themselves. Still, they are “counter-punchers”!) 90004 90002 90004 90036 AGGRESSIVE Counter Puncher vs PASSIVE Counter Puncher 90037 90002 90006 Aggressive Counter Puncher: 90007 90004 90009 90010 Likes to test you with lighter punches. 90011 90010 He waits calmly, sometimes standing still, sometimes moving laterally (you’re following him yet you feel like he’s waiting on you). 90011 90010 He’s sometimes stalking you to force YOU into making a panic move.90011 90010 He does not look scared when he’s standing perfectly still (he seems almost cocky). 90011 90010 Always targeting specific areas. 90011 90010 He’s does very little, but still feels aggressive. 90011 90016 90002 90004 90002 90006 Passive Counter Puncher: 90007 90004 90009 90010 He only throws one counter and then runs. 90011 90010 Always throwing hard counters (like he’s afraid of not hitting hard enough). 90011 90010 Will swing at anything that comes too close. 90011 90010 Very panicky look in his eyes, does not seem comfortable / relaxed.90011 90010 He seems overly defensive even when you’re throwing lighter punches. 90011 90010 Lacking confidence. 90011 90016 90002 90004 90023 How to Beat a Counter Puncher 90024 90036 Avoid His Counter 90037 90002 The counters are all he’s got! If it misses, he’s got nothing! All you have to do is beat his counter! Land the first punch, avoid his counter, and land your finishing punch. His strategy falls apart if he can not count on his counter-punches! 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Throw a Feint 90007 90004 90002 This guy is going to be overly reactive to anything you do.Fake a jab, hit him with a counter. Make a foot fake, quickly step forwards at him to see if he jerks his arms up. Hit him to the body or just attack him if he jumps away from you. While he’s busy blocking, you’re busy attacking! Make sure you get out (after 2-3 punches) before his counter comes. When you feint, be confident and be sudden! Be scary! 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Get Out Quick 90007 90004 90002 Throw a jab, back up. Throw a 1-2, slip under his left hand. Whatever you throw, keep it fast and short and then get out before he can return fire.The best way to be quick is to use small movements. Instead of taking one giant step, take a small one but at an angle. Instead of pulling your head all the way out, try sliding your head a tiny bit to the left and then again to the right. Smaller movements are faster than big movements. 90004 90002 90004 90036 Make Him Take Forced Shots 90037 90002 The counter puncher prepares his defense when he waits on you. This gives you all the time in the world to prepare your offense! 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Force the blocked shot 90007 90004 90002 Many counter punchers like to be cute and slip everything you throw.You can frustrate him by throwing punches he can not slip. Instead of throwing the first punch to his head, aim it at his chest, where he has no choice but to block it. Now that you’ve glued him there, aim your follow up shots anywhere you want. If you see that he likes to stand in one spot waiting for you, go ahead and set your feet up nice and perfect. Now throw a perfectly straight right in a way that he can not slip. Again, he’s forced to block and probably does not have any hands to counter you with.90004 90002 90004 90002 90155 90004 90002 90006 If you see him covered up like this. That’s a free punch. 90007 90004 90002 Throw a hard right straight into his glove so he feels the impact on the other side. You can also aim for the wrist, power can leak through there as well. 90004 90002 If you’re smart, you will find new ways to punch that force him to block instead of going for a counter. Little by little, you will find ways to make him block entire combos giving you a better chance of getting punches through the openings.Even if the punches do not hurt him, they can push him off balance into more vulnerable positions. 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Counter his Counter 90007 90004 90002 90006 You can control what he throws 90029 based on what you throw! 90007 90004 90002 This is much easier to do than you think! All you have to do is pay attention! If he’s countering your jab with the right hand every time, just counter his right hand! It’s that simple. 90004 90009 90010 If he likes to counter with a jab, try this: jump in with a jab, lean back (away from his counter jab), then come back in with a 1-2.90011 90010 If he to throw his right: throw a jab, slip his right hand, throw a left hook. 90011 90010 Suppose he throws a left hook counter a lot, try a quick 1-2, step back outside of his hook, step in with a 2-3-2. 90011 90010 When you’re trying to bait his counter, make sure your first punches are light (and not hard). This allows you to get out faster. 90011 90016 90002 Just remember that what he throws is almost entirely dependent on what you throw! 90189 All counter-punchers fall apart once you start countering their counters.90190 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Finish with the Jab 90007 90004 90002 90006 The jab is a great defensive tool against many punches. 90007 90004 90002 Finishing your combo with the jab is one of the most essential rules of a fighting a counter puncher. If you know he’s going to counter with a right hand, make sure you end your combo with a jab to intercept his right hand. 90004 90009 90010 Instead of throwing 1-2, try 1-2-1. (Great short combo that annoys counter-punchers.) 90011 90010 Instead of 1-2-1-2, try 1-2-1-2-1, or 1-2-3-2-1.90011 90010 Or set up with a long exit, try a 1-2-1-1. 90011 90010 The final jab will return your body back to a normal stance and leave you less vulnerable than if you finished with a right hand. 90011 90016 90002 90004 90036 Use His Style Against Him 90037 90002 90006 Apply Constant Pressure 90007 90004 90002 90006 Counter punchers do not like constant pressure. 90007 90004 90002 It’s not that they do not have the skills or ability to handle pressure, it’s that their style does not like constant pressure.Counter punchers like to make clean exchanges. They do not like getting touched, even by small punches. They do not like getting pushed. They especially do not like trading punches. They do not like messy exchanges. 90004 90002 All you have to do is stay in front of the counter puncher and keep applying pressure using a mixture of hard punches, light punches, and even body contact! Do not just aim at his head, aim everywhere (arms, shoulders, gloves). Here’s an example: try soft punches to his arms (pinning them down), hard punches to his body (forcing his to ground and defend), now push his head or shoulders to knock him off balance.Go in and repeat again! Do not give him any room to move or breathe. 90004 90002 90006 Constant pressure means constantly trying to unsettle your opponent! 90007 90004 90002 Do not just throw constant punches from one position. Imagine yourself pushing him from all angles. You do not have to use perfect form, just keep moving. Attack from any stance, squared up, southpaw, whatever. Anywhere that you can extend your arm and make contact, just do it. Just keep punching and pushing and pouring through every gap.90004 90009 90010 If you do not have good enough reflexes, try an automatic defense. An automatic defense is like slipping or stepping back once after every 3 punches. After a while, you’ll discover a perfect automatic-slipping rhythm to upset his counter-punching. 90011 90010 If you do have the stamina to apply constant punching, then keep walking and leaning on him and apply constant pushing. If he pushes you, then you grab him and tilt to one side to spin him off you. 90011 90016 90002 When you apply constant pressure, be ready to take some hard counter punches! Be ready to slip, deflect, or roll off some hard shots.The counter puncher will do anything to get you off him! 90004 90002 90006 Use your pressure to hurt him (punch) or off balance him (push). 90007 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Go Off Rhythm 90007 90004 90002 90006 Fighting off-rhythm can frustrate your opponent’s attack / defense cycles, and tire him out. 90007 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Beating the aggressive counter-punchers 90007 90004 90002 Counter punchers are often found waiting around on their opponents, and letting their opponents dictate the pace.You can tire them out easily if you keep pressuring them with a weird rhythm. Suppose he’s a pot-shotter and only throws one punch at a time, you can try throwing a punch, avoid his punch, then throw 3 more. Try mixing up some other rhythms: 2 punches, pull back, 3 more. Or how about: 1 punch, pull back, 3 quick punches, pull back, 2 hard punches. Try experimenting with off-rhythm attacks until you find one that wears him out easily. You will be surprised at how much energy counter-punchers use for setting up their counters.90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Beating the passive counter-punchers 90007 90004 90002 If he’s the type of counter puncher that does not punch until you stop punching (usually beginners), then you just have to keep punching him non-stop. You do not even have to throw hard punches, just keep mixing hard punches and light punches so you can pressure him constantly without getting tired. 90004 90002 90006 He’ll never start punching if you do not stop punching! 90007 90004 90002 Your opponent is the perfect victim for this when his trainer’s always yelling “LET YOUR HANDS GO!” Keep throwing punches until you knock him out or until the ref stops the fight.90004 90002 *** Side note: Have not you ever noticed that punching non-stop at the heavy bag is easier than sparring an opponent? It’s because you control the rhythm when you hit the heavy bag. Fighting an opponent is more tiring because your opponent controls the rhythm somewhat. If you’re a counter puncher, you’re giving your opponent 100% control over the fight rhythm. *** 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Make Him Move his Feet 90007 90004 90002 Many counter punchers like to be “set” both physically and mentally.They like having their feet in the right place and their stance and everything prepared. If you can get him to move his feet, you will disturb his preparation and make him less ready to counter you. 90004 90002 90006 Every time the counter puncher moves his feet, 90029 he has to reset his plans. 90007 90004 90002 You can do this by standing just SLIGHTLY outside of range. The moment he takes half a step to get closer to you, bum rush him. Or just walk away from him, he might even follow you.Another way to get him to move his feet is to throw a really hard punch to the body and push him when he blocks it. (Instead of pushing, you can also use that opportunity to walk into him with your body.) Even if he counters you, his feet will be lifted which removes some of his power. Any time you want to attack but feel that he’s especially set, bounce in and then out, and then in again with an attack this time. 90004 90002 Do know that this plan is not foolproof. There are a rare breed of counter punchers that I like to call “moving counter punchers”.These guys are DANGEROUS! If you ever see one, good luck buddy! 90004 90002 90004 90023 Fighting Counter Punchers 90024 90002 90006 Successful counter-punchers typically have 2 things in common-SPEED & SKILLS. 90007 90004 90009 90010 Their skills allow them to sit around closed up and attack only when they’re most comfortable. 90011 90010 Their speed allows them catch opponents even from the seemingly non-offensive positions. 90011 90016 90002 90004 90002 90006 Overcoming the Counter-Puncher’s Skill 90007 90004 90002 It’s hard to beat someone with more skill than you.And it’s often that the guy with more skill will seem faster and more powerful and completely superior to you physically when he really might only have better technique and average conditioning. In moments like this, even though you can not win, it’s important to reflect on your own skills and to focus on your skill development rather than to get sucked into the lure of speed and power. 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Overcoming the Counter-Puncher’s Speed ​​90007 90004 90002 Negating your opponent’s superior speed will always be one of boxing’s greatest challenges.While you can not take his speed away, there are always many things you can do. You can wear him down. You can make him miss. You can feint multiple times. Break him down with intelligent pressure and make him spend his energy while conserving yours. 90004 90002 Try to tire him out with constant fakes and light punches. Make him commit to a counter when you have not really committed to an attack. Many pressure fighters will break their opponents using pure aggression but do know that pure aggression does not always have to mean brute force.90004 90002 90006 Brute force works in Rocky movies, not in real life. 90007 90004 90002 90004 90002 90006 Do not waste energy 90007 90004 90002 If you’re wasting energy and he’s in shape, you’re the one that loses in the end. The moment you get reckless is the moment you find out how dangerous your opponent truly is! It’s OK to be slower or less skilled than your opponent, but do your best to fight more intelligently! 90004 90002 90006 Counter punchers beat you 90029 not only with their speed & skills, 90029 but also your impatience! 90007 90004 .90000 How to Polish Concrete – An Overview of the Grinding Process 90001 90002 As with any other specialized technique, polishing is a multi-step process requiring use of the proper tools and equipment to achieve top-quality results. To help you get started, here’s a brief overview of the polishing process and a checklist of basic equipment and supply needs, along with some buying tips. Note that each job will present different conditions and challenges, so be sure to consult with your equipment and material suppliers for recommendations as to the products best suited for your application.90003 90004 POLISHING BASICS 90005 90002 Polishing concrete is very similar to sanding wood. Machines equipped with diamond-segmented abrasives (akin to sandpaper) are used to grind down concrete surfaces to the desired degree of shine and smoothness. As when sanding wood, you gradually progress from coarser-grit to finer-grit abrasives. (In this case, grit is the particle size of the diamond.) The result is a glossy, mirror-like finish. 90003 90002 You can polish concrete using wet or dry methods.Although each has its advantages, dry polishing is the method most commonly used in the industry today because it’s faster, more convenient, and environmentally friendly. Wet polishing uses water to cool the diamond abrasives and eliminate grinding dust. Because the water reduces friction and acts as a lubricant, it increases the life of the polishing abrasives. The chief disadvantage of this method is the cleanup. Wet polishing creates a tremendous amount of slurry that crews must collect and dispose of in an environmentally sound manner.With dry polishing, no water is required. Instead, the floor polisher is hooked up to a dust-containment system that vacuums up virtually all of the mess. 90003 90004 SUMMARY OF BASIC POLISHING STEPS 90005 90002 90013 How to Polish Concrete Floors 90014 90015 Time: 3:49 90015 Get a detailed summary of the floor polishing process, including information on using planetary grinders, chemical densifiers, diamond tooling and more. 90003 90018 90019 Remove existing coatings (for thick coatings, use a 16- or 20-grit diamond abrasive or more aggressive tool specifically for coating removal, such as a T-Rex 90020 TM 90021).90022 90019 Seal cracks and joints with an epoxy or other semi-rigid filler. 90022 90019 Grind with a 30- or 40-grit metal-bonded diamond. 90022 90019 Grind with an 80-grit metal-bonded diamond. 90022 90019 Grind with a 150-grit metal-bonded diamond (or finer, if desired). 90022 90019 Apply a chemical hardener to densify the concrete. 90022 90019 Polish with a 100 or 200-grit resin-bond diamond, or a combination of the two. 90022 90019 Polish with a 400-grit resin-bond diamond. 90022 90019 Polish with an 800-grit resin-bond diamond.90022 90019 Finish with a 1500- or 3000-grit resin-bond diamond (depending on the desired sheen level). 90022 90019 Optional: Apply a stain guard to help protect the polished surface and make it easier to maintain. 90022 90043 90004 DIY POLISHED CONCRETE FLOOR 90005 90002 Polishing concrete is not an easy DIY project, since it requires heavy equipment and special diamond tooling. We recommend hiring a professional concrete polishing contractor to complete your project. They will have a thorough understanding of what it takes to achieve the best results.90003 90002 While concrete polishing machine rentals are available at local supply stores, the learning curve is steep. Plus there are many safety precautions that must be taken during the process, especially concerning dust collection. 90003 90002 Featured Products 90003 .90000 How to Pour a Concrete Slab for a Shed [Complete Guide] 90001 90002 Do you want a solid stable foundation for your shed? Something you could park a car on if it would fit through the door? If you know how to pour a concrete slab foundation for a shed, that’s what you’ll have. 90003 90002 You’ll have a permanent foundation with a smooth level floor on which to build your shed. It will also easily anchor your shed too. 90003 90002 90007 All you need to do is stake out your site, remove the topsoil, build and level your forms, spread and compact 4 “to 6” gravel, lay out some rebar, and you’re all set to pour your concrete slab .90008 90003 90002 I know it’s not quite that simple, but it’s also not that difficult if you follow the steps laid out below. 90003 90002 In this article, I’ll walk you through the steps so you know how to pour a slab foundation for a shed. I’ll discuss some pros and cons, the materials you’ll need, and give you some helpful tips along the way. Hopefully, you’ll find this article a concrete addition to your shed foundation repertoire. 90013 90003 90015 90016 90016 90018 90015 Do I Need a Foundation for My Storage Shed? 90018 90002 90007 90008 All storage sheds should have a foundation; whether pier, gravel or concrete.The foundation keeps the shed off the ground, reducing the transfer of moisture from the ground into the shed material and its contents to prevent mold and rot. 90003 90002 It provides a level, stable base on which to sit or build your shed so it lasts longer, and it can be used to anchor your shed from wind damage. 90003 90015 When to Use Concrete Slab for a Shed 90018 90002 90007 90008 A concrete foundation is a permanent foundation, which will withstand frost movement if properly constructed.It is ideal for flat ground but can be constructed on the sloped ground with some extra material and work. 90003 90002 If you need a solid, stable foundation that will support a great deal of weight, concrete is your best bet. A concrete slab foundation is also excellent for ground level access. 90003 90002 This foundation works for small 2ft x 4ft generator or recycling sheds up to 20ft x 40ft storage sheds, or larger. You can place plastic or metal sheds on a concrete slab and also anchor them directly to this foundation.It is an excellent foundation and anchor for a prefabricated shed, or on which to construct almost any style of shed too. 90003 90002 A concrete slab foundation has some limitations. It is a permanent foundation which means it is heavy and does not move easily to another location, especially if it is large. 90003 90002 It requires a compacted gravel pad under it and a stable soil structure too, so it’s not recommended for wet soft soils unless you’re planning to do a lot more work. 90003 90002 Pros: 90003 90043 90044 Concrete foundation makes a great shed floor 90045 90044 An easy floor to sweep and wash 90045 90044 Supports heavy loads 90045 90044 Ground level access 90045 90044 A solid, stable foundation for any shed style or material 90045 90044 Can anchor your shed directly to it 90045 90044 Keeps wood off the ground reducing the chance of rot 90045 90058 90002 Cons: 90003 90043 90044 Can settle into the ground over time 90045 90044 More expensive than other foundation options 90045 90044 Can crack if poorly built 90045 90044 It is a permanent foundation, hard to remove 90045 90044 Expensive for a shed 90045 90058 90002 90007 To Mix and pour, or order in 90008.90003 90002 The size of the concrete pad and your budget are usually good indicators whether to mix the concrete yourself or order ready mixed delivered. If you feel in need of a really good work out, and the pad is small, you may feel up to doing it yourself. If it’s a larger pad, you may want to order it in. 90003 90002 A 60-pound bag of concrete mix usually makes ½ a cubic foot of concrete and an 80-pound bag a bit more. It’s a lot of lifting and mixing to do, even if using a portable mixer.90003 90002 By hand, in a wheelbarrow or mixing tub, it can be back-breaking labor. Rented portable mixers are usually electric or gasoline powered and will mix 2 to 18 bags of concrete mix. You’ll still have to lift it into the mixer and then move it to the concrete pad site too. 90003 90002 A cubic yard of concrete will do approximately an 80 square foot 4 “thick pad; not counting the thicker perimeter edge. A cubic yard of concrete delivered in my area is $ 225.00. 90003 90002 At $ 4.50 for a 60-pound bag in my area and 54 bags in a cubic yard, the cost for the pleasure of doing it myself would be $ 243.00 + tax. If I rent a mixer, the cost goes up. It’s a personal decision, 90003 90002 If you decide to order in, phone around for the best deal. Many companies have a minimum load and some charge mileage and time on site, so if you have to unload the mixer truck by wheelbarrow it could get costly. 90003 90015 How to Pour a Concrete Slab for a Shed in 12 Easy Steps 90018 90002 A concrete slab has many positive attributes as a shed foundation, but it’s a very labor-intensive undertaking. It also is permanent so any mistakes are also permanent.For this article, I will use a 12’x14 ‘shed when providing examples for study. 90003 90093 Required Tools for this Project 90094 90002 Some of the tools you may have already, some you may borrow from friends, others you can rent. If borrowing or renting, return in as good condition or better when you’re finished with them. You may even have friend / helpers who bring needed tools along too. 90003 90043 90044 Tape measure: to measure distances, elevation, thicknesses and more 90045 90044 Hammer: to hammer nails, drive stakes, vibrate concrete form edges 90045 90044 Drill with a screwdriver bit: I use a drill to drive screws instead of nails 90045 90044 Saw: to cut lumber and stakes to length 90045 90044 Round bladed (digging) shovel: digging earth and spreading gravel … and mixing concrete 90045 90044 Steel garden rake: leveling soil, gravel and spreading concrete 90045 90044 Tamper and / or plate compactor: for compacting soil and gravel 90045 90044 Concrete mixer – electric or gasoline powered: mixing concrete 90045 90044 Wheelbarrow 90045 90044 Masons line: a strong line that does not stretch and sag 90045 90044 String level: level forms using strings from side to side and corner to corner 90045 90044 4ft level: level forms and concrete 90045 90044 Hacksaw or hand grinder: to cut rebar 90045 90044 Concrete float: smoothing concrete 90045 90044 Trowel or hand float, bull float and edger: smoothing the surface and rounding edges to reduce chipping 90045 90044 Work gloves: protect hands from blisters and from the lime in the concrete 90045 90044 Dust mask: keep concrete dust out of your lungs 90045 90044 Safety goggles: protect eyes from concrete 90045 90044 Rubber boots: concrete is wet and hard on leather boots, rubber boots wash easier too 90045 90058 90002 A long list, but I tried to make it a complete list.Some items you can do without, or exchange for others. 90003 90093 Required Materials for this Project 90094 90002 For a concrete pad foundation, the material list is smaller than your tool list. The numbers or amounts will reflect the 12’x14 ‘example but can be adjusted to suit your project. 90003 90002 The materials you’ll need are concrete, ½ “rebar, gravel, wood to form the pad perimeter, and 2x4s for stakes and kickers to hold the forms level and in place. I also put 6mil poly down on the gravel before the concrete goes down.It prevents moisture from seeping up into the concrete and also keeps the concrete from drying out too quickly after the pour. 90003 90002 I’m going to cover the material needs as if you opt for the full experience of mixing your concrete. If you decide to have ready mix delivered, the company will often ask the dimensions and then give a quote on the job. 90003 90093 Concrete 90094 90002 When buying the concrete mix, you’ll need to decide what you need and the weight of bag you can manage. Concrete mix usually comes in 60 and 80-pound sacks but is available in 40 and 50-pound sacks in some areas.90003 90002 Concrete comes in 3 main kinds: 90003 90002 Crack Resistant Concrete Mix – has a synthetic fiber in the mix, which helps prevent cracking and eliminates the need for the mesh. It’s rated at 4000 psi 90003 90002 Concrete Mix – the normal or original concrete in a bag, also rated at 90007 4000 psi 90008 90003 90002 90007 5000 Concrete Mix 90008 – a higher strength mix rated at 5000 psi, it is good for cold weather applications 90003 90002 90007 6000 Concrete Mix 90008 – an even higher strength mix which also includes synthetic fiber to make it more crack resistant, also rated at 6000 psi 90003 90002 For a concrete pad foundation for a shed use the original concrete mix.It will provide you with the same end product as the other two types and cost less. 90003 90093 Slab Thickness 90094 90002 The thickness of the concrete pad depends on what you plan to put into it. Most sheds and workshops are fine with a 4 “thick slab. If you’re planning to store heavy items like barrels full of steel balls, choose a 6 “thickness. 90003 90093 How Much Concrete 90094 90002 The dimensions of your shed and the thickness of the slab determine how much concrete you need. For our example of a 12’x14 ‘shed, I’ll use a 4 “thick slab with a double thick perimeter.90003 90002 To calculate your concrete needs multiply the length by the width of your shed, then multiply by the thickness; remembering to change inches to feet (4 “÷ 12” = 0.33 ft). There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard of concrete, so divide the total cubic feet by 27 to get the amount in cubic yards. 90003 90002 12 ‘x 14’ = 168sqft x 0.33 = 56 cubic feet of concrete for a 4 “pad. I’ll need more if I double perimeter thickness to support a heavy structure. 12 ‘+ 12’ + 14 ‘+ 14’ = 52ft x 0.33 = 17.3 cubic feet. I’d need 56 cubic feet ÷ 27 = 2.07 cubic yards of concrete for the 4 “slab. Plus 17.3 cubic feet ÷ 27 = 0.64 cubic yards if I double the perimeter wall construction. 90003 90002 If I’m using 60-pound bags, I’ll need 163 bags for a 4 “thick pad with an 8” thick perimeter. Each bag makes ½ a cubic foot of concrete and would cover approximately 14.76 “x 14.76” x4 “. 90003 90002 If I’m using 80-pound bags, it’ll take 123 bags to do the same job. Each bag would cover approximately 21.4 “x 21.4 “x 4”. Always order 10% extra for miss calculation; as long as it’s kept dry and clean, it can be returned. 90003 90002 If I were using ready or pre-mixed concrete, I’d order 2.75 cubic yards if the company delivers in ¾ units or rounds up. A cubic yard will cover approximately 80 sqft at 4 “s thick. I’d have something formed up to use any extra concrete too – you pay for it anyway. 90003 90093 Cost 90094 90002 The cost of pouring a concrete slab depends on where you live. I’m about 30 miles from the concrete plant and a mile from my closest building supply store.90003 90002 The building supply store waives the delivery charge if my order is large enough. Unfortunately, if I’m renting compactors or concrete mixers, I have a 30-mile drive, each way. 90003 90002 To have pre-mix delivered in my area is $ 225.00 a cubic yard; they do ¾ increments above 2 yards. $ 225 x 2.75 = $ 618.75 with 1 ½ hours on site before extra charges. 90003 90002 If mixing 163 bags manually, and including 16 bags for the extra 10%, I’m in for $ 805.50 before tax. A 60-pound bag cost $ 4.50 in my area, and I’d prefer moving 60-pound bags to 80. If mixing 3 bags at a time every 10 minutes, it’ll take me close to 9 hours! Rent a mixer! 90003 90002 Gasoline powered 9 cubic foot mixer in my area runs $ 71.00 for a 4 hour rental. If I’m using up 2 hours on travel I’ll need it longer. Even though it’ll hold 18 – 60-pound bags, do 12 to 14 at a time. 90003 90002 I usually put a measure of water in first, then add half the bags, add more water, and add the rest of the mix. Save the final water amount to get the consistency you want – not too wet, but not too dry.90003 90002 A good porridge mix is ​​ideal. Even at 14 bags at a time, with 3 – 4 mixes an hour, it’ll still take 3 to 4 hours to mix. The more hands to help, the better your back will feel. 90003 90093 Gravel 90094 90002 To ensure a solid base for your concrete pad, a compacted gravel base which is 4 “- 6” s thick needs to be put down. For heavier loads or in cold areas with deep frost, you may want it 8 “- 12” s thick. 90003 90002 If your excavation is too deep, you’ll need extra gravel to bring it up to the desired level.For our example, I’ll use 6 “of compacted gravel. 90003 90002 The best gravel to use is a ¾ “crushed stone mixed with smaller pieces and dust; often referred to as 21-A by gravel companies. It compacts very well and gives a solid level base for your concrete. 90003 90002 The thicker the gravel pad, the more compacting you will be doing. The gravel should be laid in 3-inch thick layers and compacted before the next layer goes down. 90003 90002 To calculate the amount of gravel you need, measure down from where the top of your concrete pad will be to the base of the excavated soil.Subtract the thickness of the concrete pad, and you are left with the thickness of the gravel. 90003 90002 Multiply the thickness of the gravel by the dimensions of your concrete pad, and you get the cubic foot measurement off required gravel. For my example, I’d use 0.5 ‘(6 “of gravel) x 12’ x 14 ‘= 84 cubic feet ÷ 27 (cubic feet in a cubic yard) = 3.11 cubic yards of gravel. It’s better to order extra. I’d bump that up to 3.5 cubic yards since I’d use more when compacting. 90003 90015 Step 1: Planning for your Slab 90018 90002 90007 90008 Determine where you want to build your shed.The flatter the ground, the better, but you do not want low-lying areas that may pool water or stay wet. 90003 90002 You have decided you want a concrete pad foundation for your shed. The final size should be the exact size of your shed. You want the framing anchored tight to the edge so the cladding can overlap the concrete by approximately 1½ “. 90003 90002 The overlap creates a seal where the wall and slab meet preventing weather and insects from getting into your building. The outside shed dimensions, or it’s perimeter, are the measurements for your concrete pad.90003 90002 If you want a ramp up to a doorway, or the pad extended on one side for extra storage space, you can build them at the same time, or add it later. Once you’ve decided on the final size, you’re ready to move on in your planning. 90003 90002 You need to decide now if you are going to mix and pour the concrete yourself, or deny yourself that pleasure and opt for pre-mixed concrete. Some of the decision may be made based on where your job site is. Ready-mix or premix may not be available in your area, or it’s too difficult to get it to your site.90003 90002 The concrete you use for your concrete pad is another decision you need to make. Are you going to use rebar and steel mesh or use concrete with a synthetic fiber in it? 90003 90002 Use both, or use no steel or fiber? The greater the risk of frost movement in your area, the greater the need to reinforce your concrete pad with steel or fiber. 90003 90002 The thickness of your slab depends on the climate you live in, the type of shed you will place on the pad, and what you’ll store in the shed.90003 90002 A 90007 2 “slab 90008 might be good for 90007 lightweight plastic structures 90008 and light loads like a bicycle, in warm climates. 90003 90002 A 90007 4 “slab 90008 is good for most climates and loads like snowblowers, motorcycles and even cars. While a 6 “slab will stand up to cold climates and heavy loads like milling tools, stacked steel plate, or heavy machinery. 90003 90002 If you are building a wooden or heavier steel structure on the pad, the perimeter of the pad is often twice the thickness of the pad.The extra thickness supports the weight of the building and provides thicker concrete for the wall anchors to be set in. 90003 90002 L-bolt anchors are available in 6,8,10, and 12-inch lengths. They are designed to be set into the thicker concrete perimeter before it sets. 90003 90002 If you’re placing a shed onto the pad and planning to anchor the shed to the pad, a 4 “thick perimeter is great since ½” diameter anchor bolts need to be sunk 2¼ “s. The minimum depth in the concrete for the bolt to be effective is 4½ times its diameter: so 4½ x ½ “= 2¼”.90003 90002 This is ideal for wedge anchors that are added after the concrete hardens. You do not want the anchor sticking through the concrete into the gravel or it will rust and permit moisture to seep up into the shed wall. 90003 90002 One last item in the planning is Insulation. If you’re thinking of using your shed for an office, playroom or in-law suite sometime, then you may want to add a layer of high-density rigid foam insulation. The insulation is laid on top of the gravel and the concrete poured over it.90003 90002 90003 90015 Step 2: Buy Materials 90018 90002 The first material you’ll need to buy is lumber for the batter boards, stakes, forms, kickers. Also, buy a very straight 2 × 4 to use to screed the concrete level. 90003 90002 Use 2 × 10 to form a 4 “pad or 2 × 12 to form a 6” pad. You need enough 2 × 4 to cut into stakes for every 2 – 3 feet of the perimeter, plus the same number of kickers. 90003 90002 Remember to get anchor bolts. You need enough anchor bolts to do 12 “on either side of each corner and door, plus every 4 to 6 feet.90003 90002 I also get a roll of 6 mil poly to go on the gravel to prevent moisture from seeping up and to slow the drying out process of the concrete. 90003 90002 Take some time to call around for quotes on gravel and concrete. If you book delivery for when you hope to be ready, you can always call and reschedule. 90003 90002 If you wait to book until you’re ready, it may not be available. The same goes for any equipment rentals, book ahead for the date you hope to be ready. 90003 90015 Step 3: Prepare the Slab Construction Site 90018 90002 90007 90008 Before you begin to dig, you want to check with the utilities to make sure you are clear of underground utility lines or right-of-way.A concrete pad is permanent, so you do not want to have to move it. Check with your local building department about permits you need, plus any HOA rules for your neighborhood. 90003 90002 Clear your planned site of any brush, trees, rocks or obstructions. You want a clear workspace around your site too, so clear an extra 3 to 5 feet in all directions. Tree roots can cause concrete to crack over time, so keep that in mind if your site is close to trees. 90003 90002 Plan your concrete pad construction with the weather in mind.If it’s too cold concrete does not set well, if it’s too wet concrete is hard to finish, and if it’s too hot, it can cure too quickly causing the surface finish can peel. You also want to make sure you have time to do the job properly. 90003 90002 90007 Note: 90008 Call 811 or go to call811.com before you dig to have any underground utility lines marked. 90003 90002 90007 90008 90007 90008 90003 90015 Step 4: Mark the Location of the Base 90018 90002 Once the underground utilities are marked, and you have the permits in hand, you’re ready to lay out the foundation.Measure in from any setbacks or the lot line and drive in a stake to mark your first corner. Measure from that stake to find and place the rest of your corner stakes. 90003 90002 For larger pads set up batter boards a foot or two outside the planned site and use them to identify the corner location and square up the corners. 90003 90002 To square up your corners an easy method is to measure the diagonal distances from each pair of opposite corners and adjust one until both are the same. Remember to make sure your length and width stay the same.90003 90002 Run mason or string line around your corner stakes and use a string level to level the string. Also, check the level diagonally between the corners. 90003 90002 Mark on the stakes where the string is when level, it will make it easier to reset it the string is moved. Use the marking paint to outline the pad on the ground. 90003 90002 You’re now ready to put your shovel into the ground. 90003 90015 Step 5: Dig Out the Foundation 90018 90002 The size of your concrete pad is the area you need to dig out.If you’re planning to put down 6 “of gravel and a 4” pad, and you want the top of the pad to be at least 2 “above ground level, then you need to dig 8” down. 90003 90002 If the top of your pad is 5 “above the ground, then the shed siding can overlap 1”, and you’ll still have 4 “between the ground and any wood. You need to remove the sod and 5 “of soil from your build site for the top of the pad to be 5” above the ground. Remember to level the soil base too. 90003 90002 Check the level of your excavation as you dig by measuring down from the string line.Once you have dug out a level base, remove any loose material and tamp it down. Remember, your excavation needs to be larger than the pad so you can fit in the forms. 90003 90002 If your site is fairly flat and the pad not too big, you can do it yourself with a shovel. If the pad is large or the ground not flat, you may want to rent a bobcat or excavator for a day; it’s about $ 250 / day in my area. 90003 90002 If someone else in your neighborhood is planning or doing a similar job, you may be able to go together and save some money.90003 90002 If you do not want to do the excavation yourself, contact a professional. They’re not cheap, but they know how to use the equipment and will be much quicker. 90003 90002 You’ll also avoid any damage to you or your property. If you have friends or neighbors who may need work done, you may be able to split the cost. 90003 90015 Step 6: Build Strong Concrete Form 90018 90002 Begin by cutting your 2 × 10 or 2 × 12 forms to length. For my 12’x14 ‘example, I’d use 4 – 2 “x10” x14’ planks. I’d make sure 2 were 14 ‘long and cut the other two 12’-3 “long.The extra 1½ “on each end is for attaching to the 14 ‘planks. If you can not get planks long enough, then connect two with a 4 ‘length of same dimension lumber, also known as a cleat. 90003 90002 Place a long side (14 ‘) plank in your excavation and stake it at one end with one screw or nail. The screw or nail acts as a pivot point as you level the other end of the plank against a stake. Once the plank is level, attach it to another stake, so it is staked at both ends. 90003 90002 Next place a short side (12’-3 “) plank in the excavation and stake it, so it overlaps the other plank.Attach it with one screw to a stake at its end, or to the other plank. At the opposite end hammer in another stake and raise the plank until it is level, then attach it to the stake. 90003 90002 Repeat the process until all the forms are placed and level. Check the diagonal measure to make sure the corners are square and recheck that the forms are level. Also, check that it is level from side to side; use a string line and string level to do this. 90003 90002 With the forms leveled, hammer in reinforcing stakes every 2 to 3 feet.Concrete is heavy and wants to flow outward, so it puts a lot of pressure on the forms. 90003 90002 Check the level again using a string that’s attached at each end of the plank. You can adjust a bow or a crown when attaching to the support stakes. 90003 90002 Screw or nail all stakes to the planks. To provide more support at each stake, hammer 2 × 4 kickers diagonally into the ground and attach them to the top of the vertical stakes. 90003 90015 Step 7: Spread the Gravel 90018 90002 With the forms in place, you’re ready to for your first layer of gravel.Do not have the delivery truck dump it directly into the pad area; it needs to be compacted in 3 “layers or lifts. Fill the formed area with 3 “of gravel. Use a vibrating plate compactor and make 3 or 4 passes. You can rent a 14 “compactor in my area for about $ 90 a day. 90003 90002 Spread the second layer, or lift, of gravel. Keep all other layers about 12 “back from the forms. This will allow for a thicker concrete perimeter to support the walls of your structure and to set the anchor bolts in.90003 90002 If the gravel is too dry, mist it with water from the hose to help it stick together and compact better. Make 3 or 4 passes with the plate compactor for every 3 “layer of gravel. 90003 90002 Check that the gravel is level and measure down from the top of the form to make sure the depth of the gravel is correct and that you have enough room left for your 4 “or 6” concrete slab. 90003 90015 Step 8: Install Rebar Net 90018 90002 Concrete makes a permanent slab on which to build or place your shed, but it is brittle.It needs reinforcement to give it added tensile strength and to prevent cracking. 90003 90002 You can use steel rebar, or steel mesh, or opt for having synthetic fiber added to the concrete before pouring. Do a price comparison and choose what best suits your plan and budget. 90003 90002 Before laying out the steel, lay out the rigid insulation if you’re using it, and tape the seams together. The 6 mil (or thicker) poly is rolled on top of the insulation if using it, or on top of the gravel. 90003 90002 Overlap and tape the seams.The poly slows the drying of the concrete by preventing the moisture from seeping quickly into the ground, making the concrete set better. 90003 90002 Rebar is available in ½ “diameter and comes in lengths up to 20 feet. Cut the rebar with a hacksaw, reciprocating saw, or power grinder with a steel cutting disk. 90003 90002 Use lengths to form a 2-ft or 4-ft grid pattern. Overlap lengths by at least 6 “where necessary. Use wire ties to connect joints and where the rebar cross each other. 90003 90002 The rebar needs to be suspended in the middle of the concrete to be effective.Rebar chairs are wired to the grid to lift it off the ground. If you need to wheelbarrow the concrete, leave the rebar on the ground and lift it up with a rake, hoe, or your hands as the pour progresses. 90003 90002 Sheets of 6 “grid steel mesh are an alternative to the rebar grid. They need to be wired together and lifted off the ground with rebar chairs. 90003 90002 The rebar chairs need to be wired to the mesh too and frequently placed to keep it off the ground. Use a plank to wheel the concrete into place instead of trying to lift the mesh up after pouring concrete.90003 90002 An alternative to the grid or mesh is using concrete with synthetic fibers added to it. The fibers are mixed into the concrete, increase the tensile strength, and help to prevent or limit cracking. 90003 90002 The fibers are throughout the concrete instead of only in a set grid pattern in the middle. The synthetic mesh is now being used in residential, industrial and commercial projects without the steel grid. 90003 90002 Regardless of which reinforcement you use, make sure to place two lengths of ½ “rebar in the deeper 12” s around the perimeter.This will give the thicker concrete more strength as it acts like a footing and supports the walls of the shed. 90003 90015 Step 9: Pour Concrete 90018 90002 90007 90008 Pouring concrete is a labor-intensive fast-paced process. Concrete waits for no one! Make sure you have all the tools, materials and helpers ready. 90003 90002 Mark the location of doors and openings on the outside of the forms so anchor bolts can be placed more easily. I recommend you mark the bolt locations on the forms so they do not interfere later on with the placement of studs.Check that the forms are level and corners square. 90003 90002 90007 Safety Tip 90008: The lime in concrete is very hard on skin, and concrete is abrasive, wear gloves and protect your skin. Wash concrete off clothes and skin before it dries. Those who are mixing the concrete should also wear a dust mask and eye protection as well as gloves. Inhaling concrete dust or getting it in the eye can be painful and cause long-term issues. 90003 90002 You need two or more large wheelbarrows and enough strong helpers to keep everything moving.Plan how the concrete will get to the formed pad, the closer the mixing is to the pad, the less muscle to move it. 90003 90002 Check the weather forecast, and postpone if necessary. Rain will ruin the surface and soften the ground for heavy equipment and work. If it’s too hot or windy, it can dry and harden the concrete faster than you can work it. 90003 90002 Before pouring the concrete, spay a mist of water over the steel grid. The water on the steel will help the concrete bond to it better.90003 90002 If you’re mixing your concrete, make sure it is the consistency of porridge; it should slump some, but not run. The instructions are on the bag. 90003 90002 The bigger the pad, the longer it will take. Take turns mixing and wheeling the concrete. Fill the pad beginning at the corner furthest from the mixer. 90003 90002 As you cover a 2sqft section, lift the steel, so it’s in the middle of the concrete. Work to fill one end and then move out from there. Tap the outside of the forms to help remove any air bubbles or pockets as you fill inside them.90003 90002 If you are having premixed concrete delivered, plan out the route to get the truck as close to the site as possible. Take into account the size and weight of the delivery vehicle too. 90003 90002 When you order the concrete, tell them the dimensions and use of the project. They’ll recommend the best concrete for the job. 90003 90015 Step 10: Level Your Concrete Slab 90018 90002 The concrete should be slightly above the forms. Use a shovel or rake to spread the concrete around and move it into low spots as needed.90003 90002 Once one end is filled, use the long 2 × 4 screed board to begin smoothing the concrete level with the forms. Angle the screed board toward you and work it left and right as you pull it to you. 90003 90002 There should be ½ “to 1” of concrete in front of it as you pull it toward you to fill in any low spots. 90003 90002 Set the anchor bolts into the concrete as it is screeded. 2 “s of the threaded bolt should be above the surface. Lightly smooth the surface around the bolt. 90003 90002 The bolts can be straightened as the concrete hardens if they tip a bit.90003 90002 Begin smoothing the concrete with a hand or bull float after a section has been screeded. Make 3 to 4 passes with the float to smooth the surface, keep the leading edge slightly raised by lowering the float handle. 90003 90002 You want to smooth the concrete, not plow it. Do not float the concrete too much as it will draw water to the surface and weaken the surface. 90003 90002 While a section is being flattened with the screed board and another smoothed with the float, the mixing, wheelbarrow moving and filling of the pad continues.90003 90002 The size of the pad determines how quickly it will be filled, screeded, and floated smooth. 90003 90002 When finished with tools, wheelbarrows, or the screed board, clean any concrete off them and let them dry. 90003 90015 Step 11: Finish and Edge the Concrete 90018 90002 Once the slab has all been floated smooth, wait for the water to bleed or seep out of the concrete and pool on the surface. When the water disappears, the concrete is ready to finish. If it is a hot day, you’ll have to work quickly.If it’s a cooler day, it may take an hour or two for the water to evaporate. 90003 90002 Edge the concrete where it meets the forms while waiting for the water to disappear. Rounding the edge reduces the chance of chipping and makes it easier to lay the bottom plate flat. It the edger sinks more than 1/8 “and leaves a groove, smooth it out and wait a bit longer. 90003 90002 The concrete is ready for finishing when the surface water disappears, or it loses its sheen, or when you push your thumb onto the surface, and it does not leave an imprint.90003 90002 If it’s a large pad that you do not have time to wait for the perfect moment, you can make 2’x2 ‘pads from rigid foam to kneel on. You want a smooth finish, but do not work the surface too much, or it may flake when dried. 90003 90002 Finishing the concrete using a hand float to push pebbles beneath the surface and remove any bumps or marks left from the bull float or edger. 90003 90002 Use a steel trowel after the float for a smoother finish. Work it like the float, but you may need to press down hard to draw some soup or slurry to fill in air bubble holes.90003 90002 Keep it almost flat as you work in a sweeping motion trying to leave no visible mark. For large slabs you may want to use a power trowel. It’s gasoline-powered 4 or 5 trowel bladed propeller like a machine that can be used to provide a smooth finish. 90003 90002 If you want a no-slip surface, skip the steel trowel stage and draw a bristle broom across the surface to give a slightly roughened or broom finish. 90003 90002 Once the concrete is smoothed, edged, and anchor bolts place and upright, and everything is washed up, you can take a break.90003 90015 Step 12: Ensure Proper Concrete Curing 90018 90002 For concrete to cure to its maximum strength, it should be kept wet to cure slowly. Mist the surface with a hose 2 or 3 times a day for 5 to 7 days, or spray it with a cure and seal compound after finishing the surface. 90003 90002 The compound is available from most building supply stores. You could cover the concrete with plastic to slow the curing process too. 90003 90002 Keep the plastic off the concrete while it hardens. The plastic can discolor the concrete too.90003 90002 Let the concrete harden for a day before removing the forms. The surface will be soft and will scratch or chip easily. 90003 90002 Wait a couple of days before building on it to let the concrete set. After 24 hours concrete is 50% cured, at seven days it’s 70%. It will take about 28 days for the concrete to be fully cured. 90003 90015 Conclusion 90018 90002 I hope you’ve found this article a concrete addition to your building file. A concrete slab foundation may seem like a lot of work, but it is a real asset to your shed.90003 90002 Gather the tools and materials you need, follow the steps, and have lots of helpers. It makes a great foundation and an awesome floor! 90003 90002 Your comments and questions are appreciated. If you know someone who is considering pouring a concrete slab, please share with them if you liked the article. 90003 90465 90465 90002 Eugene has been a DIY enthusiast for most of his life and loves being creative while inspiring creativity in others. He is passionately interested in home improvement, renovation and woodworking.90003.90000 How Pervious Concrete Works – The Concrete Network 90001 90002 Essentially, pervious concrete is a structural concrete pavement with a large volume (15 to 35 percent) of interconnected voids. Like conventional concrete, its made from a mixture of cement, coarse aggregates, and water. However, it contains little or no sand, which results in a porous open-cell structure that water passes through readily. 90003 90002 Close-up of a pervious pavement at Splashpad Park, Oakland, Calif. The network of voids gives the concrete its characteristic honeycomb texture.90003 90002 Schematic of a typical pervious concrete pavement section. 90003 90002 When pervious concrete is used for paving, it can take in stormwater at a rapid rate of 3 to 5 gallons per minute per square foot of surface area, which exceeds the flow rate needed to prevent runoff in most rain events. The rainwater may be stored in a coarse gravel layer underneath the pavement or allowed to percolate into the underlying soil. Because the pavement itself acts as a retention area, it helps to prevent much of the polluted runoff that normally occurs with impervious pavements.The filtration process also helps to purify the water. As the water percolates through the open cells of the pavement, aerobic bacteria in the voids help to break down harmful pollutants and chemicals. 90003 90010 ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS 90011 90002 Tree roots need air as well as water. Pervious concrete allows the passage of both. This pervious parking lot at Miller Park in Fair Oaks, Calif., Is helping to preserve over 23 mature olive trees through natural irrigation. The lush tree canopy also shades the parking lot to provide natural cooling.90003 90002 Stormwater runoff is a leading source of the pollutants entering our waterways. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, about 90 percent of surface pollutants are carried by the first 1-1 / 2 inch of rainfall. Stormwater drains do not typically channel this polluted runoff to treatment facilities, but instead convey it directly into local water bodies. This can increase algae content, harm aquatic life, and require expensive treatments to make the water potable. 90003 90002 According to Youngs, the big three pollutants in urban runoff are sediment (dirt and debris), heavy metals (from the brake linings of cars), and hydrocarbons.One source of hydrocarbons is the oil that drips onto pavements from vehicles. But the primary contributor is asphalt. Studies have shown that 90 to 95 percent of the hydrocarbons in urban runoff is from the binder and sealer used for asphalt pavements, he says. 90003 90002 To address these serious pollution concerns, the EPA and many local municipalities and regional watershed authorities are tightening environmental regulations and requiring more stringent stormwater management practices. Pervious concrete is becoming one of the most viable solutions.90003 90002 Here are some of the reasons why. A pervious concrete pavement can: 90003 90022 90023 Reduce the amount of untreated runoff discharging into storm sewers. 90024 90025 90023 Directly recharge groundwater to maintain aquifer levels. 90024 90025 90023 Channel more water to tree roots and landscaping, so there is less need for irrigation. 90024 90025 90023 Mitigate pollutants that can contaminate watersheds and harm sensitive ecosystems. 90024 90025 90023 Eliminate hydrocarbon pollution from asphalt pavements and sealers.90025 90037 90002 In addition to stormwater control, pervious concrete pavements aid in reducing the urban heat-island effect. Because they are light in color and have an open-cell structure, pervious concrete pavements do not absorb and store heat and then radiate it back into the environment like a typical asphalt surface. The open void structure of the pervious pavement also allows cooler earth temperatures from below to cool the pavement. 90003 90002 The lighter color of concrete is also beneficial from an energy-savings standpoint.Because the concrete is reflective, the need for lighting at night is reduced. 90003 90002 Beyond helping the environment, pervious concrete pavements are also safer for drivers and pedestrians. Because pervious concrete absorbs water rather than allowing it to puddle, it reduces hydroplaning and tire spray. In California, parks are installing pervious concrete pathways to provide disability access for people in wheelchairs. 90003 90010 ENVIRONMENTAL RESOURCES 90011 90002 Center for Watershed Protection 90024 www.cwp.org 90003 90002 U.S. Environmental Protection Agency 90024 Office of Wetlands, Oceans, & Watersheds 90024 www.epa.gov/aboutepa/about-office-water 90003 90010 PERVIOUS CONCRETE VIDEO 90011 .